“one of the most enthralling studies of gastronomy ever published”

One of the best reviews of Hoosh has been all but invisible. Since the day it came out in the UK’s The Independent (2/4/13), the review by Christopher Hirst has been locked away in pay-for-access online archives. It’s difficult to find even on an intensive Google search. At the risk of a cease-and-desist order, I reproduce it for you here…

“How curious that a book about frozen food should be one of the most enthralling studies of gastronomy ever published. You should know, however, that Birdseye does not get a mention. This is the story of the food that sustained or, often, failed to sustain adventurers in the natural deep-freeze of the Antarctic. Written by a man addicted to the white continent (Anthony has spent eight “summers” there), the book begins in the “heroic age” of exploration when an item called hoosh was the main form of sustenance.

Though this porridge made from melted snow and pemmican (dried fatty meat) thickened with crushed biscuit scarcely sounds the most luxurious of foods, you would never know it from the ecstatic response of some consumers. The albatross-enriched hoosh that saved members of Shackleton’s Endurance expedition was “remembered for the rest of their lives”. Other local additions included crabeater seal blubber, imaginatively described as “reminiscent of melon”, and frozen seal blood, which produced a hoosh thick enough “to stand a spoon upright”. Fried seal brains were the great gourmet treat of Antarctica (they should be “fresh and free of blood clots”).

Anthony reveals that the knowledge gained about scurvy by the Royal Navy in the 18th century had been pretty much lost by the early 20th century. It afflicted some explorers so badly they had to support their warped legs with bamboo splints. The pemmican packed by the Scott expedition lacked any antiscorbutic element while the more experienced Amundsen ensured his party had pemmican containing dried vegetables and seal-meat rations rich in vitamin C. But the main reason that the British perished is that their trek was too late in the year and took too long for the quantity of food they carried. A daily deficit of 2,000 calories meant that Scott probably lost 40 per cent of his body weight before he died.

Later expeditions were better provisioned though Antarctic nutrition retained its distinctive quality. During a 1949 expedition, an attempt to make the Portuguese salt cod stew known as bacalhau with the stock-fish supplied to sledge dogs was “an ammonia-scented failure because the fish had been repeatedly scent-marked by the huskies”. Today, the world’s most southerly cuisine is considerably improved, even enviable, especially at the French base where a midwinter feast of 19 courses took four hours to consume. Even at the US McMurdo Station, Anthony was the recipient of a dozen “illicitly-made olive, sweet potato and sourdough loaves”. But his inclusion of nine recipes from the heroic era suggests a lingering desire for jugged shag and seal tournedos.”

more awards for Hoosh

I’ve slacked on this blog for over 4 months now, and much has happened in the interim. I’ll write up some other entries regarding some Hoosh events and happenings. In terms of awards, Hoosh won the Travel category of the 2012 ForeWord Book of the Year Awards, earned a Silver in Creative Nonfiction for the 2013 Independent Publisher Book Awards, and was a finalist in Nonfiction for the 2013 Maine Literary Awards.

What has been particularly interesting about this process is that each award places Hoosh in a different category: Nonfiction, Creative Nonfiction, Travel and (for the Andre Simon Award) Food and Drink.  To paraphrase Billy Holiday, if you put it all together, Hoosh has everything a good reader needs…

2013 MLA STICKERBook of the Year Awards Logo

A Taste of the Past (Interview)

A Taste of the Past on The Heritage Radio Network (Linda Pelaccio, 8/1/13) I had a fine interview today with Linda Pelaccio of A Taste of the Past. We talked about all the fun stuff: hoosh, scurvy, and keeping freshies safe and warm in your … [Continue reading]

Hoosh wins an Andre Simon Food and Drink Book Award

2012 Winners of the Andre Simon Food and Drink Book Awards Hoosh has won the Special Commendation from the Andre Simon Memorial Fund, one of four awards given out in 2012 for books on food, wine, and food culture. The Chairman, trustees and … [Continue reading]

What Passes For Food in Antarctica (Interview)

Victor Campbell sketch - ice cave

The Story on American Public Media/National Public Radio (Phoebe Judge, 2/13/13) Phoebe Judge talks to author Jason C. Anthony about the food that historic explorers such as Sir Ernest Shackleton and Douglas Mawson ate to keep them going during the … [Continue reading]

From the Gut (Interview)

Antarctic Sun (Peter Rejcek, 12/14/12) The most challenging part of writing the book was doing the research on a shoestring. I couldn’t afford to go to the UK to cavort in the holdings of the Scott Polar Research Institute, nor could I endlessly … [Continue reading]

Hoosh shortlisted for the 2012 Andre Simon Food and Drink Book Awards

2012 Food and Drink Book Awards shortlist (Andre Simon Memorial Fund) There are so many fantastic food and wine books published each year that it is a real pleasure for all the trustees to reward the months and years of hard work by the authors, and … [Continue reading]

Death of Antarctic writer Nicholas Johnson

Nicholas Johnson

Nicholas Johnson, author of Big Dead Place and a close friend, took his life on November 28, 2012. Nick's death is a heartbreaking loss to his family, to his friends, and to so many of us that knew him as an essential part of the Antarctic community. … [Continue reading]

Antarctic Eats (New York Times Book Review)

Antarctic Eats (Rebecca P. Sinkler/New York Times Book Review) And then there was the hunger, the persistent, maddening, gut-cramping hunger. You thought, dreamed and talked of little but food. Forget that other primal urge. The closest you got to … [Continue reading]

Douglas Mawson, Hunger Artist (Hoosh excerpt)

"Douglas Mawson, Hunger Artist" from The Smart Set  Like the inhabitants of other former frontiers, we Antarcticans like to think that the successes, the failures, the noble or ignoble exploits of our pioneers become essential narratives for those … [Continue reading]

A new book about Antarctic cuisine satisfies foodies and historians alike (Review)

A new book about Antarctic cuisine satisfies foodies and historians alike (Jeff Inglis/Portland Phoenix)  As you nurse your post-Thanksgiving food coma back to normality, spare a thought for the men and women in Antarctica this holiday season. … [Continue reading]

Exploring the cuisine of the deep South (Interview)

"Soup to Nuts: Exploring the cuisine of the deep South" (Portland Press Herald/Meredith Goad) BRISTOL - Jason Anthony does not consider himself a foodie -- you know, the kind of person who by definition loves good food, can identify every last … [Continue reading]

Hoosh Blurbs and Reviews

My narrative and culinary history of Antarctica, Hoosh: Roast Penguin, Scurvy Day, and Other Stories of Antarctic Cuisine, was published November 1st, 2012, by the University of Nebraska Press. New reviews will be added as they … [Continue reading]

Transport Management (Hoosh excerpt)

Hoosh excerpt recently posted at Time to Eat the Dogs:    In the tradition of nineteenth century European expeditions to remote areas of Africa, Asia, and the Arctic, some heroic-age expeditions brought beasts of burden to Antarctica that in … [Continue reading]

Vostok, Antarctica (Hoosh Excerpt)

Vostok, Antarctica

Hoosh excerpt recently posted on the blog of Longitude Books: Murmured Russian syllables followed me into the empty dining room. Spare and plain, the room was clearly Vostok’s heart, a repository of Russian culture and simple food so old that it … [Continue reading]